{"id":7016,"date":"2023-10-23T09:59:03","date_gmt":"2023-10-23T13:59:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/allagainstabuse.org\/?p=7016"},"modified":"2025-11-07T10:14:04","modified_gmt":"2025-11-07T15:14:04","slug":"the-met-donates-bespoke-mannequins-to-the-retreat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/allagainstabuse.org\/es\/the-met-donates-bespoke-mannequins-to-the-retreat\/","title":{"rendered":"El Met dona maniqu\u00edes a medida al Retiro"},"content":{"rendered":"

27East.com<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Por Michelle Trauring <\/strong>el 18 de octubre de 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En el Museo Metropolitano de Arte, el maniqu\u00ed Schl\u00e4ppi ha presidido las exposiciones del Costume Institute durante m\u00e1s de 50 a\u00f1os, gracias a su atemporalidad y flexibilidad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Estos atributos tambi\u00e9n son v\u00e1lidos en su nueva casa, a casi 160 km al este.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Durante el verano, el Met don\u00f3 10 maniqu\u00edes -hechos a medida en Italia para una retrospectiva sobre el icono de la moda Karl Lagerfeld- a The Retreat Boutique, en Bridgehampton, donde la tienda de segunda mano no s\u00f3lo da nueva vida a la ropa reciclada, sino tambi\u00e9n a estos modelos inanimados reutilizados.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Ani Antreasyan y Gitana Albinson<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\"Espero que los tengamos durante mucho tiempo\", afirma Gitana Albinson, directora de la tienda. \"Es un complemento muy, muy bonito. Ayuda a las ventas, eso es lo m\u00e1s importante, y ayuda a tener ese aspecto de boutique elegante\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La historia de su llegada comienza t\u00e9cnicamente en la exposici\u00f3n \"Karl Lagerfeld: Una l\u00ednea de belleza\", que presentaba unas 150 piezas del dise\u00f1ador, acompa\u00f1adas de bocetos de Lagerfeld, y que estuvo abierta del 5 de mayo al 16 de julio en el museo neoyorquino. Pero para Ani Antreasyan, empieza mucho antes: \"con seis o siete meses de pena\", recuerda riendo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La agente inmobiliaria de Brown Harris Stevens acababa de apuntarse como voluntaria a The Retreat Boutique, deseosa de ayudar a peinar y vestir a sus maniqu\u00edes, pero enseguida se dio cuenta de que no era tarea f\u00e1cil. Eran viejos, pesados y dif\u00edciles de manejar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Me hac\u00edan da\u00f1o en la espalda\", explica. \"Cada vez que los desmontaba, me costaba mucho volver a montarlos\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cuando Antreasyan, que trabaj\u00f3 en el Met durante 12 a\u00f1os en diversos puestos, incluido el de ayudante del dise\u00f1ador jefe, visit\u00f3 la reciente exposici\u00f3n, no le impresionaron tanto las prendas -entre ellas dise\u00f1os para Balmain, Patou, Chlo\u00e9, Fendi, Chanel y la marca hom\u00f3nima de Lagerfeld- como la instalaci\u00f3n en s\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Estaba mirando su ropa y pensaba: 'Bueno, esto no es tan genial, pero queda tan bien en este maniqu\u00ed'\", dijo. \"Y luego fue como maniqu\u00ed tras maniqu\u00ed tras maniqu\u00ed, y pens\u00e9: 'Tengo que tener algunos de estos para El Retiro'\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Y as\u00ed, Antreasyan pidi\u00f3 y la boutique recibi\u00f3. Una vez aprobada la donaci\u00f3n, Santiago Abondos, miembro del personal de The Retreat, condujo hasta Manhattan para recuperar los maniqu\u00edes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"No hay nada mejor que esto\", dijo Antreasyan. \"Est\u00e1n hechos a mano en Italia, a medida para el espect\u00e1culo. No hay nada mejor en el mundo\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Para mostrar mejor los dise\u00f1os de Lagerfeld, el museo seleccion\u00f3 maniqu\u00edes -fabricados actualmente por Bonaveri en Italia- con el cuerpo de Schl\u00e4ppi en poses de rodilla doblada y pierna recta. Pero en cuanto a la cabeza, era a medida, seg\u00fan Joyce Fung, investigadora asociada del Met.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El comisario Andrew Bolton quer\u00eda reflejar el gusto y la est\u00e9tica de Lagerfeld como entusiasta del arte, seg\u00fan explic\u00f3 en un ensayo, y se decant\u00f3 por la colecci\u00f3n del dise\u00f1ador, concretamente por las figuritas de porcelana del escultor alem\u00e1n Gerhard Schliepstein, que trabaj\u00f3 durante el periodo Art D\u00e9co.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Con una atenci\u00f3n al detalle y una escala apropiadas para un maniqu\u00ed de moda, Bonaveri esculpi\u00f3 cuatro cabezas que se integraban perfectamente en el cuerpo existente de Schl\u00e4ppi\", escribi\u00f3 Fung, \"inspir\u00e1ndose en obras como 'Diana y ciervo' (1924) y 'Mujer con dos candelabros' (1925).\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A juego con los rostros estilizados, Bonaveri tambi\u00e9n cre\u00f3 nuevas manos de inspiraci\u00f3n Art D\u00e9co con dedos alargados, y los maniqu\u00edes se fabricaron con un acabado blanco brillante que recuerda a la porcelana.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Parec\u00eda como si nunca hubiera visto algo as\u00ed antes, y eran preciosas por la forma en que sujetaban los vestidos\", dijo Antreasyan. \"No parec\u00edan muertas. Eran muy expresivas, con las manos extendidas y la cabeza erguida, y parec\u00edan glamurosas. No se puede llamar glamuroso a un maniqu\u00ed, pero \u00e9ste lo era\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Los maniqu\u00edes llegaban a la tienda por piezas, recuerda, y montarlos resultaba complicado. Todos estaban numerados, pero el sistema era confuso, dice, y como eran a medida, el torso correcto ten\u00eda que corresponderse con los brazos y las piernas correctos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Pero una vez hecho eso, ahora es pan comido\", dijo. \"Es divertido trabajar con ellos y todo les queda bien\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En la actualidad, un pu\u00f1ado de maniqu\u00edes adornan los grandes escaparates y, seg\u00fan Albinson, al final de la primera noche que estuvieron instalados, una mujer entr\u00f3 en la boutique y compr\u00f3 todas las piezas de uno de ellos, e incluso un par de zapatos de la tienda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ten\u00eda el look completo y se fue muy contenta\", dijo. \"Me di cuenta de lo importante que es tener maniqu\u00edes y vestirlos, porque la gente se da cuenta y quiere esos looks exactos. En un d\u00eda o dos, ya estar\u00e1 vendido\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Todo lo recaudado se destina a los servicios gratuitos de The Retreat para supervivientes de violencia dom\u00e9stica y agresi\u00f3n sexual, que incluyen asesoramiento, educaci\u00f3n preventiva, defensa jur\u00eddica, una l\u00ednea de atenci\u00f3n telef\u00f3nica multiling\u00fce 24 horas y un refugio de emergencia. Cada d\u00f3lar y cada donaci\u00f3n cuentan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Esto ayuda a que El Retiro tenga sentido de la moda. Tambi\u00e9n ayuda a los donantes a ver que realmente estamos cuidando nuestras donaciones y d\u00e1ndoles la vuelta\", dijo Antreasyan. \"No est\u00e1n en cestas, sino en estos bonitos maniqu\u00edes. Adem\u00e1s, reciclamos. No pasan por un vertedero. Es algo bueno\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Junto con Laurie Sykes, otra residente del East End que trabaja como voluntaria en la boutique, Antreasyan acude varias veces al mes para vestir a los maniqu\u00edes. Ahora ya no es una tarea pesada, dice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Fue genial que nos donaran algo de categor\u00eda mundial como esto\", dijo. \"Estoy muy agradecida. Mi espalda est\u00e1 muy agradecida\".<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

27East.com By Michelle Trauring on Oct 18, 2023 At The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Schl\u00e4ppi mannequin has anchored Costume Institute exhibitions for over 50 years, thanks to her timelessness and flexibility. Those attributes ring true at her newest home, too, almost 100 miles east. Over the summer, The Met donated 10 mannequins \u2014 custom-made […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":7017,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[97],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7016","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Met Donates Bespoke Mannequins To the Retreat - The Retreat<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/allagainstabuse.org\/es\/the-met-donates-bespoke-mannequins-to-the-retreat\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_MX\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Met Donates Bespoke Mannequins To the Retreat - The Retreat\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"27East.com By Michelle Trauring on Oct 18, 2023 At The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Schl\u00e4ppi mannequin has anchored Costume Institute exhibitions for over 50 years, thanks to her timelessness and flexibility. Those attributes ring true at her newest home, too, almost 100 miles east. 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Those attributes ring true at her newest home, too, almost 100 miles east. 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